The Underestimated Brow

The most underestimated part of a woman's beauty routine is without a doubt the eyebrow. Everyone plays up their eyes and lips, but why do they forget the brow? It needs love too!

A lot of women assume that you just need to wax or tweeze the stray hairs of your brow and thats it, you're done. Boy are they wrong! A defined full brow really frames the face, and makes everything come together and look complete. I guess that's a little confusing because defined and full are kind of opposites? Let me explain. When I say defined, what I really mean is groomed and shaped into an appealing arc that suits your face. When I say full, I mean filled in, so there are no sparse areas, and that the brow is full of colour and stands out to frame the face.

Whether your eyebrows are thick and flat like Audrey Hepburn, or thin and sparse like Blake Lively's its important to keep them groomed. Never over tweeze your brows, keep the look natural. I always recommend going to a professional, but here's a step by step way to easily groom your eyebrows at home. 

1. Natural sunlight brings out every flaw and hair, so if possible sit in front of a window with a mirror to tweeze. If no natural light is available use a well lit room or bright table lamp turned towards your face. 

2. Use an eyebrow brush, or a clean unused tooth brush and brush brows up. Tweeze the hairs left behind under your arch. (if you have very thick, full eyebrows use a white eyeliner pencil and trace the shape you want to achieve while plucking all the hairs that fall outside the white line) 

3. Move to the top of your eyebrow. This is where it gets more difficult. Rumour has it you aren't supposed to tweeze AT ALL above your brow, but you want both sides to be clean and smooth, so its sometimes necessary to do a little cleaning up. You really don't want to take a lot away from the top, as this is where your arch is defined. Brush hairs down and out and simply remove any stray hairs one at a time and slowly evaluate how many to remove. Its better to be slow and precise then to over pluck. 

4. The space between your brows should be equal to the space between your eyes, or sometimes wider.    99% of the time you don't want them to be any closer. To determine this, take a pencil and hold it parallel to your nose at the inner corner of your eye. Where your brow meets the brush is where your brow should be begin. Tweeze any hairs that fall between.

5. After every few plucks, take a step back and evaluate the job you've done. Its always better to take your time and not over pluck.

Thats it folks! You're done! That wasn't so hard was it? If you found it extremely painful you can also always use an ice cube to numb the brows first.

When it comes to filling in the brows, a lot of women I've spoken to, seem almost, scared! Theres nothing to be scared about, it will truly add so much life to your face and you will wonder how you ever lived without it! Its easy. Here's how.

1. Brush eyebrows with your clean unused toothbrush, or brow brush, slightly up and out. Then apply a brow wax to hold hairs in place. Theres a lot of products out there but its not worth wasting money on an expensive product cause they all work the same. I recommend NYX Brow Shaper Pencil. 

2. Determine if you're going to use an eyebrow pencil, or eyeshadow. If using shadow make sure you have a proper eyebrow brush because the lines must be precise. Pick a shade of pencil or shadow that is  1 to 2 shades darker then your hair colour.

3. This is where it gets tricky. Determine the shape of brow you want to achieve. Where your brown begins and ends, and archs is important. Heres a graph that explains it for you better then I could with rambling. 

Line A, B and C: These lines determine how high your arch should be. Take a pencil and hold it horizontal just under your pupil. (Line A) Now take another pencil and again, holding it horizontally, place the pencil at the top of your eyelid (Line B) Take a mental note on how big that gap is. While still holding  the pencil at Line B. Take the other pencil and move it about the same distance apart but this time above line B. (Line C) This should be roughly how high you would make your arch. Ok I lied. That part was a little confusing.

Line D: This is where your brow should begin, as we learned when plucking. Take a pencil and hold it parallel to your nose at the inner corner of your eye. Where the pencil meets the brow is where it should begin.  If you have a wider nose, the closer you keep your brows will thin your nose, if you have a thin nose and want it to appear slightly wider the further apart you have your brows will make your nose appear wider. 

Line E: This is where your arch should be at its highest point. Again take your pencil and hold it parallel to the outer point of the iris (the coloured part of the eye) where the brow meets the pencil is where the arch should peak. 

Line F: This is where your brow should end. Take a pencil and hold it at a 45 degree angle from the outside of the bottom of your nose, it should also run just under the outer corner of your eye. This is where the tip of your brow should end. 

3. Take mental notes of all these points. Now take your pencil or shadow and lightly fill in all the sparse areas using the graph as a guide. Make sure the strokes are made in the same direction your actual hairs grow, and be light handed.

4. YOURE DONE! Heres an example of some beautifully cleaned up and filled in brows.

That wasn't so hard was it? Practice a lot at home before trying your new brows out in public, so that you master these techniques. Also, don't be afraid to fill in outside your actual brows, thats what the graph was for. To teach you how to draw brows on in a natural way, and keep in mind its just a guide not the only way to do things. My own brows grow fairly far apart, so when I fill them in, Im actually drawing on bare skin, sometimes I'll draw them in closer then the guide recommends because there are no rules! Just remember natural is best! Because this is not a good look....